November 14, 2009

This is the first day of our second week out. The winds have diminished to 8 MPH and it’s wonderful! We also have shopped at Walmart after borrowing a slipholder’s car. What a reintroduction to civilization! Also took the ferry to Norfolk, which took all of 10 minutes, and found Nordstrom’s. All is not lost!

We would love to leave tomorrow, and will have to take the Elizabeth River route if their inspection of the locks shows no damage. The Dismal Swamp route is closed due to many trees down and other floating debris. Also, we actually have talked to several other boaters at the marine who are headed south. There’s going to be a flotilla resembling the Boston Marathon when all of us get the OK signal to head south.

November 15, 2009

Left Tidewater Marina – yeah – at 8:40 this morning, arrived at Deep Creek Lock for the 11:00 lock-through into the Dismal Swamp. Passed huge military ships in the Norfolk Harbor that had BAE signs, indicating they were being serviced . Your guys, Fred, Jr., welding? Passed through the lock and we had to anchor so Fred could replace an impeller, because of an overheating problem, probably aggravated by the floating debris. We saw whole halves of trees floating and had to steer around them, not to mention stumps , floating grass islands and smaller branches. This was the first day that the locks had reopened after the tropical storm.

Sign on the side of the canal lock

Along the Dismal Swamp Canal

Arrived at the North Carolina Welcome Center in the Dismal Swamp Canal and decided to tie up here for the night. Promptly joined by seven other much larger boats and are presently rafted up three deep. Intention is to leave at 7:00 A.M. to arrive at the South Mills Lock for an 8:30 opening, and then proceed to Elizabeth City, NC. We want to overnight there. It feels great to be “back on the road” again, so to speak. Meeting very interesting people, from world travelers, seasoned ICW “snowbirds,” and first-timers , just like we are. We are locked up for the night, having been warned about the assertive black bear population looking for food!

Raft up at NC Welcome Center on the Dismal Swamp Canal
Our Boat looks Tiny in front of the 50’ Duffy

In the Lock at South Mills

November 16, 2009

Short day today as we traversed the South Mills Lock and ventured forth for five hours to Elizabeth City, North Carolina, arriving here about noon. Still some issues with engine overheating, so Fred spent the afternoon cleaning the heat exchanger of twigs and leaves. More remnants of Tropical Storm Ida! Seems to run fine now. Tomorrow will be the true test.

I spent the day in the most thrilling way – doing laundry. It’s become a practice to hoard quarters. Nothing finer than using marina laundry facilities -- where they routinely wash boat rags and I don’t even want to know what else --to clean our sheets, towels, and unmentionables! We look forward to a long day tomorrow crossing Albemarle Sound and into the Alligator River. Hope to get the sails up!

November 17, 2009

Another half day, five hours, as we left Elizabeth City, motored down the Pasquotank River, and sailed -- s-a-i-l-e-d -- across Albemarle Sound. Fred was thrilled! Don, you would have had your spinnaker up in a heartbeat. It might be the last time on our trip that we can sail. We had three-footers, but it wasn’t as bad as we’ve heard it can be. Decided to stop at the mouth of the Alligator River, because if we went to the next logical stop south on the river, we would arrive after dark. Plus, the forecast is for rain tonight and tomorrow, which we would rather endure during daylight.

Spent another afternoon drying out bedding, rewashing towels, and generally drying everything out. We had general dampness, but other boaters we’ve talked to had everything soaked. And those nice big power boats were pitching and rolling with their substantial windage, while we’ve remained fairly stable. On to Belhaven, NC tomorrow!

The entrance to the Alligator River – Pungo River Canal

November 18, 2009

Well, we haven’t developed the typical ICW moustache on the boat yet. This trip is the first I ever heard of such a thing. I always just thought those people didn’t wash their boats. I didn’t realize it was a badge of honor! Evidently, because the water in the Dismal Swamp and bodies of water south have so much tannic acid in them, as a result of decaying roots and leaves, the water turns a chocolate brown. When a boat passes you, you can see dark brown water rising up on the bow, which after time stains the boat, resembling a moustache. Boy, just when you think you’ve heard it all!

We traveled another 50-plus miles today to Belhaven, NC down the Alligator River/Pungo River Canal. An amazing 20-mile manmade canal, but boring! We holed up at a small marina to wait out a predicted storm. Of course, our luck, all the restaurants in town are closed because of unusual flooding and you can’t even get to the front doors. It’s probably for the best. These small town restaurants seem to specialize in fried everything, including hush puppies!

Tomorrow, again depending on weather, we plan to head to Oriental, NC

We went under the Hobucken Bridge on the way to Oriental

November 19, 2009

What day of the week is it, and who are all these strange people? Arrived in Oriental, NC midafternoon. A very small town, 900 residents, but putting up with a few thousand sailboaters. There are huge shrimp boats docked across from us, and we learned fishing is a primary source of income. We’ll take a picture of the boats and include it tomorrow.

The temperature in Oriental is in the 70s and the people in town are friendly and helpful. It’s a pleasure to be here. Many small businesses, such as you would find in a New England village. We’re wondering how they survive in this economy. There are probably fewer boaters than previous years, but the ones that are traveling south are not what you would call economically deprived. We’ve only seen one other southbound vessel smaller than ours. We’re probably referred to as “those crazy Pennsylvanians.” I can see the logic in that thought!

We’re pushing to get to Wilmington, NC by Saturday, because another nor’easter is expected to arrive Sunday. We’re ready to batten down the hatches and snuggle in.

One of the many shrimp boats in Oriental

November 20, 2009

An interesting day! We left the shrimp boats in Oriental very early and headed southward again. Dolphins were swimming and performing at three locations along the canal, but couldn’t get the camera ready in time. They are fast!

Later, just as we were cruising merrily along and in a very busy commercial harbor at Beaufort, NC, a coast guard boat with mounted rifle pulled up next to us to do a random inspection. After they confirmed that we had no firearms on board, they checked the bilge, engine room, and storage areas for contraband. Good thing they don’t consider gin and vodka illegal substances! They also then checked our fire extinguishers, life jackets, boat documentation and Fred’s ID. They were very polite, but so young. Isn’t everyone these days? We now have certification that’s good for the next 30 days — for the boat, not us!

Continued on to Swansboro, NC. Another upscale small village atmosphere. Many incredible homes along this stretch of the Waterway. Onward bright and early tomorrow.